Historical Committee


I Wish I'd Been There: Tsar Alexander Comes to Lindenau


by Ted Regehr

I wish I’d been there on 21 May 1818 when Tsar Alexander I visited the village of Lindenau in the Molotschna Mennonite Colony in southern Russia. It would be interesting to see the state of the village, founded in 1804 and just emerging from its difficult pioneering years.

Before the visit, the street had been carefully swept and sprinkled with sand and the houses were colourfully decorated. The colonists wanted to demonstrate their substantial progress and to promote further migrations of Mennonites from Prussia, where people had suffered great hardship during Napoleon’s occupation of that region in his 1812 campaign against Russia.

People came from many of the neighbouring Molotschna villages along the western side of the Molotschna River, and from the German Lutheran Prischib colony on the river’s eastern banks. On the appointed day, in glorious spring weather, Mennonite villagers gathered on the left side of the street, the German colonists on the right. Their demeanor, clothing, personal appearance, and the place, if any, assigned to Russian peasants who had found work with the Mennonites would provide fascinating insights into early Russian Mennonite culture.

The royal procession consisted of nineteen carriages. The Tsar sat in the sixth carriage, drawn by six great
tsar
horses. He disembarked, as previously arranged, at the home of David Hiebert, the village teacher and preacher, for a “breakfast” of bread, butter, onions and ham. The Tsar’s gracious demeanor, particularly his insistence that the hostess occupy the best chair at the table and his gift of a ring to her, became the subject of Mennonite folklore. The Tsar’s retinue, including two senior military officers in their resplendent uniforms, added colour to the occasion.

Alexander I is probably the most enigmatic Tsar in Russian history. His demeanor during the Lindenau visit contrasts sharply with the wild, raucous and dissolute life of the Tsar and the entire Russian delegation at the lengthy deliberations in Vienna following Napoleon’s defeat at Waterloo. His apparent respect for a humble Mennonite hostess seems incompatible with the often harsh autocratic style of government he and the other members of the Concert of Europe imposed on their people after 1815. Allegations that Alexander was involved, or at least informed beforehand, of the plot to murder his father, the insane and incompetent Tsar Paul I, add further mystery to the man, as do rumours that he may not have died in 1825, shortly after a second visit to the Molotschna colony. It has been alleged that, after an elaborately staged hoax funeral, Alexander became a mystical religious recluse trying to resolve the contradictions of his character and to expiate the guilt of his father’s murder.

Like his father, who had given Mennonites their cherished Privilegium spelling out in greater detail than any of Catharine the Great’s invitations the privileges of the Mennonite colonists, Alexander was a good friend and admirer of the Mennonites. But he had little patience with some of the quarrelsome ways of Mennonite church and community leaders. That was most evident when he awarded a large gold medallion and restored to a position of authority one of the Mennonite leaders who had been banished by his own people. Was this, as the Mennonite accounts say, a man blessed of God, or an autocrat haunted by guilt and a longing for a simpler and more godly life? I wish I could have seen this mysterious man of contradictions when he first visited the Mennonites in the Molotschna colony.

T. D. Regehr is professor emeritus of history, University of Saskatchewan, and the author of numerous articles and several books on Russian and Canadian Mennonite history.

Photo/caption:
Alexander I.jpg- Tsar Alexander I ruled Russia, 1801-1825. He was “a good friend and admirer of the Mennonites.”


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